![]() Do I need to use Bondcrete/PVA or something like Zinsser Peer Stop (which smells and looks like runny PVA) as a primer over the plaster/stuck paint before I skim coat? Or will this potentially compromise the bond?.I then plan to skim coat over the plaster 2-3 layers, undercoat with Zinsser 123, and then paint. I will then use Sikaflex around cornices etc especially where the is seasonal movement. In some areas where render is drummy and for larger repairs, I will remove back to stone/brick, spray with water and fill with perlite+cornice cement mix. Where there are cracks, I have scraped back the plaster and sandy render to the stone (external walls) or brick (internal) and plan to spray with water, and fill with cornice cement. Where the top coat plaster is coming loose I have scraped it off. However the plaster layer is thin (~2mm) and so in quite a few places the scraper has gouged into a what appears to be a very crumbly/sandy render underneath - kind of pinky colour. About 70% has come off, leaving a mostly smooth cream colored plaster. The walls are covered with paint that is starting to peel, so I have scraped off as much as possible. I am about to tackle my 1910 sandstone villa in SA and I'm just after some advice/reassurance before I plough ahead. Here’s the next part of the video where the skim coat is finished.I have read the many threads here and have learnt an awful lot about skim coating, gold mine of info. It doesn’t need to go on as thick as the first one. If you want, a smaller roller like a ¾” roller works great for a second coat. Repeat steps four and five for your second skim coat. Let the paint dry for a few hours before starting your second coat. Repeat this process until you’re completely done with your first skim coat. Scrape any excess paint into your mud pan and repeat until your wall is finished. The goal is to end up with a smooth surface. ![]() You want to remove all the lumps of paint and any small bumps on the wall. Take your putty knife and scrape off the excess paint.ĭo this for the entire section that you just painted. The coat you applied with a roller won’t look smooth. But one person should be able to do both just fine. You can have a friend help you skim or paint to be safe and speed up the process. This can ruin a project quickly, so make sure you watch the paint carefully. But if the paint starts to dry, you won’t be able to skim anything. In the next step, you’ll need to skim the paint with a putty knife. If you’re painting a big wall, paint it in sections. So you’ll have less sanding to do with a thinner joint compound.Īll you have to do is dip your roller in the paint tray and start painting the wall. ![]() ![]() Thicker joint compound often requires a lot of sanding because it doesn’t apply as consistently as a thinner coat. It will get rid of the bumpy knockdown texture or other rough patterns on your wall or ceiling. Two coats also ensure that your wall has a smooth and glossy texture. The thinner joint compound makes it easier to apply the coat. Since we thinned the joint compound with water, we’ll apply two skim coats. Just add water until you get a yogurt-like consistency. This isn’t something you need an exact formula for, though. The video below recommends emptying out half of your joint compound and adding about four cups of water. Thin out your joint compound.Ī skim coat is a thin coat of paint, so you’ll want to thin out your joint compound with some water. Any other exposed areas inside your wall, like electrical wires, need to be taped off as well. Typically this includes outlets and the top of baseboards.
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